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How to buy a Pacific Coast
Things to look for and hot tips

Top tips when buying a PC 800..

The Honda Pacific Coast provides good protection from the elements & has an almost bullet proof engine. PC's with over 100k miles are not uncommon. Maintenance is exceptionally low for a Motorcycle, no valve adjustements, carb syncing is easy as it only has two carbs. One just has to be comfortable removing the fairing plastics and is easy to clean. Available tires seem to last 10k to 20k (depending on make and riding style) and is adequately powered. The PC800 is not a speed demon, but it does have ample power with plenty of zip.

Selecting a PC.....

  1. Is the tupperware in good shape, no broken tabs (replacing plastic is not a low cost activity - one of the very few negatives of PC)
  2. Take off the side vent covers and take a look at the engine to look for oil seepage. The PC does not have a cam cover gasket, rather it is a finely machined surface with gasket compound.
  3. Maintenance records. When was it lasted synced, plugs changed etc.. Was it serviced regularily? (See if it's in Daniels maintenance database)
  4. The best color is one of particular debate but if age of the bike concerns you, the color of the bike will represent specific years:
  5. General Items to look for on any bike:
    * What color is the brake and clutch fluid. If its the color of tea or weak tea it needs to be replaced.
    * How much brake pad is left? (the PC's seem to go a long way on a set of stock pads.
    * Does it smoke when started and rev'ed up?
    * Does it seem to have excessive play in the steering head? If it does it may need new bearings.
    * Do the forks show signs of leakage (are the forks pitted or rusty?)
    * Was it wrecked and if so, Does the bike track straight? (run it through a puddle of water when going straight and see if the tires make one trail. If you see two trails, the frame or forks may be tweaked or bent).

1989 Pearl White

1990 Candy Red
1994 - 1995 Black
1996 - 1998 Magna Red (The paint for these years is not clearcoated, so more care needs to be applied when waxing and polishing)
 



 

 
Maintenance tips

Some useful tips for servicing/maintaining your PC800 as compiled by Neville Goldsmith (UK Scottish region)

1. Front Wheel Axle Spacer - The axle spacer at the right hand end of the axle is subject to corrosion which tears the bearing grease seal lip and ultimately wrecks the right hand wheel bearing. I advise regular inspection, cleaning and greasing or better still do as I have and have one turned up out of stainless steel.

2. Front Brake Discs - PC 800 discs are identical to VFR 750 FK ones and good pattern ones are readily available. I can recomend "Stealth" discs (H7 left or right side) at £49-99 each. "Stealth" advertise in M C N.

3. Front Brake Calipers - Piston housings are prone to corrosion causing pistons to seize. I recommend fitting new seals and coating seals and into seal retaining grooves with silicon grease, (also sliding pins). If you only use hydraulic fluid during assembly, the fluid is hydroscopic (absorbs moisture) and will not prevent further corrosion. Tips: 1) Pump out the
pistons before disconnecting any pipes ~ use a 'G' clamp to hold one whilst pumping the other. 2) To grip pistons to pull them out or push/twist them in, use a 'rawbolt' down the inside carefully expanded to grip the inside bore. Caution ~ set the bolt at the base of the bore and do not overtighten or you will split the piston. 3) Fabricate a bent wire hook tool to carefully scrape out the corrosion that builds up in the seal retaining grooves.

4. Steering Head Bearings - The standard ball races fitted will indent after about 25,000 miles causing a notchy feel in the straight ahead position. Don't waste your money fitting replacement Honda items, change them for taper roller bearings. The bearings used are common to many Honda models e.g. VFR 750 FG-V, and bearing kits are readily available. I used a
set supplied by M & P Accessories part no SSH 4903R at £32-25 which come complete with replacement dirt/grease seals. Tips : 1) Setting the bearing pre-load can really only be done by feel (do not use the method described in the manual as this is for the original ball races). After everything is torqued down and tightened, the forks should feel slightly stiff but free and smooth - not as free as you would set wheel bearings. Do the test as described to check that you have got it right. 2) Use the fork tubes to align the top and bottom yolks. Fit the front wheel fully to fix the bottoms of the tubes and torque up the pinch bolts before finally torquing up the main stem nut.

5. Thermostat - If your PC runs too cold, check your thermostat. Mine had rusted away such that it did not shut off.

6. Camshaft End Cap Oil Leaks - I understand that the substantial leak that I had on my bike is fairly common to a greater or lesser degree. Although it requires a fair bit of spanner work to access the cylinder head covers it is not beyond the scope of a competant D I Y mechanic. After removing the offending cylinder head cover it is just a matter of cleaning
off all traces of the old silicon sealant and re-sealing everything, particularly the rubber end caps, before torquing it all back down as directed in the manual.

7) Exhaust Manifold Studs - The location of the front cylinder exhaust manifold makes it prone to corrosion of the studs, nuts and lock-washer. It is a good idea to replace the studs and nuts with stainless steel items made
up from M8 x 60 bolts, and M8 nuts, and replace the stock tab washer, coating it with copperslip grease. Tip: Take note of how the four spring compression washers are oriented in two pairs nose to nose as shown (but not very clearly) in the manual.

8. Exhaust Manifold End Stubs - The manifolds (or headers) themselves are long lifed but the connecting end stubs are prone to corroding through rust after the stop ring. My friend, Davy Murray's bike had this problem on the rear cylinder but he was able to get it repaired. The old stub was cut off flush to the stop ring and a new section of 1.5" diameter exhaust pipe was
butt-welded squarely to it. Although the weld effectively moved the stop ring 0.25" there is enough movement in the system and the swiveling manifold fixing to accomodate it. So if yours is in trouble, try this repair first
before forking out for a new manifold. To stop it happening, fill the gaps created by the belled ends of the pipe/box joints with exhaust jointing paste.

9. Swingarm Corrosion - The PC 800, like the "Pan European", is subject to corrosion on the box section of the swingarm, directly in front of the rear wheel. I have heard of repairs being carried out by welding plates over the affected area, but to avoid the problem owners should keep this area washed clean. It is worth removing the rear wheel and checking for the problem (it should be inspected during an MOT Test) and even if it is OK it should be re-painted and coated with loads of underseal.

10. Final Drive Flange Inner 'O' Ring - The large thin 'O' ring that sits in a grove on the rear wheel hub underneath the drive flange assembly is subject to drying out and wearing away as the cush drive moves back and forth. If this happens, as it had on my bike, the steel flange rubs onto the aluminium hub and damages it. Check it out periodically and re-lubricate the main surfaces of this and all the cush drive rubbers and flange pegs with silicone grease and replace the 'O' ring (part no 91302-MR5-003) if it is worn.

11. Power Supply for Aftermarket Heated Grips - A good place to pick up a suitable "ignition on" feed for heated grips is from the fan motor supply (blue/orange cable) as it enters the fuse box. The reasoning for using this supply is that the fan will only be running when it is hot and heated grips will only be needed when it is cold.

12. Replacement High Screen - I have fitted and can recommend, a screen supplied by M & P Accessories which is almost a direct copy of the Honda item. It is made by Acrybre (part no ACR 31038 CF) and is available from M & P Accessories ( Cat no M 346642) under their 'NUVO' brand. Cost £58-99. In the U.S. both Clearview and Rifle make replacement screens.